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The blazers most characteristic feature was its lapels, one notched, the other the shawl kind. That garment opened the show as part of a dusty blush suit woven in liquid threads that made it reflective. Later interpretations included half-and-half blazers one side black, the other.

On the backstage wall behind her hung three sketches with Karl Lagerfelds inimitable touch: two new Fendi logos fusing classicism and futurism and a little silhouette of a double-breasted suit, nipped in gently at the waist and not too long, its shoulder sharp and defined.

A rare sight these days. Sportier proposals included big volumes: parkas and puffas in nylon and organza, but this time the track top and bottoms of previous seasons had been replaced with roomy tailored trousers and knitted cardigans that served the same purpose. The sportswear.

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Its been terrific, but this season she was right to change things up. Following a series of artist collaborations, Silvia called up the one she knows best. Timidly I asked Karl if he wanted to draw a new jacket, a new silhouette. Karl is always.

Today, the most subversive thing a kid can wear is tailoring, Silvia Venturini Fendi declared after her show, which saw an exhilarating departure from the sportswear thats penetrated her menswear lately. On the athleisure front a difficult nut to crack mainly due to its commercial.

But I still think there is not just one dictate. You have to combine things, Silvia said. Her collaboration with Lagerfeld who has designed Fendis womenswear for half a century culminated in collage prints combining his sketches with images from the Fendi universe, splashed across.

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